FK8 · FL5 · DE5 · Accord 2.0T

Best Drop-In Turbos for the FK8 & FL5 Civic Type R (and Integra Type S) – From OEM+ to 600+whp

December 5, 2025 – Thomas Germano

The K20C1 is one of those engines that dares you to turn it up. Honda gave us a direct-injected 2.0T that lives happily at 7,000rpm, and then bolted on a tiny turbo that runs out of breath just when things get interesting.

This guide covers the most proven stock-location, drop-in turbos for the FK8, FL5, Integra Type S, and even the Accord 2.0T – from OEM+ daily setups to “pulls away from everything on the highway” territory.

• Drop-in / stock-frame turbos only
• Realistic WHP ranges
• Daily + track use in mind

Quick Picks

Short version: if you don’t want to overthink it, here’s where each turbo really shines in the real world.

MHI Honda 2.0T Stage 2 – The OEM+ Daily That Still Rips

If I had to pick one turbo that nails the balance between reliability, drivability and real performance, it’s the MHI Stage 2. This is basically what the factory should’ve given us from day one – same housings, same footprint, just with real hardware inside.

Why the MHI Stage 2 Just Works

• Compressor: 65mm 5+5 billet TD05-21HR3 wheel (51.585mm inducer)
• Turbine: 52mm TD04-HLL1 Inconel wheel (47.7mm exducer)
• Airflow: 0.35 m³/s @ PR 2.5 (up from 0.26 m³/s stock)
• Estimated power: ~400PS with headroom well into the 500+hp range
• Fitment: 100% bolt-on – OEM housings and mounting points

On the street, the MHI feels OEM in all the right ways. Spool is right there when you need it, part-throttle is smooth, and you don’t lose that punchy midrange that makes the car fun in traffic. The difference is once you lean on it, the car keeps pulling where the stock turbo falls flat.

On decent pump gas with typical bolt-ons and a stock fuel system, it’s a perfect ~380–430whp setup you can drive every single day. Add a proper fuel system and an ethanol blend, and now you’re realistically playing in the 500–560whp window with some aggressive builds scraping above that on friendly dynos.

What I’d Pair With It

• High-flow catted or catless downpipe & front pipe
• Quality intercooler upgrade
• Intake + inlet that doesn’t freak the MAF out
• Hondata FlashPro or equivalent tuning solution
• HPFP + DI injectors + E blend if you want 500+whp

Stock vs MHI Stage 2 – Power & Torque

Below is a simple visual of what the typical dyno comparison looks like using Hondata’s testing on 91 octane. Your numbers may be higher or lower – what matters is the shape of the curve.

That’s exactly what you want in a car that needs to be fun Monday to Friday and still earn its keep on the weekend: same low-end feel, but it doesn’t give up at 5,500rpm like the stock hairdryer.

RV6 R660 & R660AS – When You’re Done Playing

Where the MHI Stage 2 is the smart choice, the RV6 R660 and especially the R660AS are what you buy when you’re ready to swing harder. RV6 didn’t try to wring miracles out of the tiny TD04 frame – they moved to a full TD05 bearing housing and built the whole package around reliability at serious power.

R660 Hardware Highlights

• Oversized TD05 bearing housing with 8mm dual ceramic ball bearing
• Compressor: 54mm inducer / 67mm exducer billet wheel
• Turbine: 54mm inducer / 49mm exducer, 0.81 A/R
• Turbine material: MAR-M super-alloy wheel and shaft
• Oversized coolant passages with -10AN coolant lines for thermal control
• Direct drop-in for FK8 / FL5 / DE5 with RV6 bypass valve included

The bigger TD05 frame and 0.81 A/R housing slash backpressure compared to stock-frame TD04 hybrids. That pays off in more stable boost, happier EGTs, and a motor that isn’t fighting against a clogged exhaust side at higher RPM.

Real-world results back it up: things like ~501whp at only 26psi on E30 with the right supporting mods. With a proper fuel system and ethanol blend, the R660 realistically lives in the ~520–570whp zone on healthy setups.

Best Use-Case for the R660

• Street car that sees regular roll racing or half-mile events
• Track builds that need strong top-end without going to a full custom manifold
• Owners who are already comfortable upgrading fuel, clutch and cooling

R660AS – Antisurge & T51R Flair

The R660AS takes everything good about the standard R660 and turns it up again with an antisurge/T51R-style compressor cover and full intake package:

• Antisurge / T51R mod compressor cover
• 76mm compressor inlet with included 82mm carbon fiber inlet pipe
• Matching RV6 inlet elbow and couplers
• Same TD05 8mm ball bearing center section and MAR-M turbine wheel

Functionally, the antisurge cover gives you more surge margin and airflow potential. Practically, you get that big-turbo sound and a car that keeps pulling hard up top when a lot of other drop-ins are already on the downslope.

With a serious fuel system and E blend, R660AS combos have pushed into the 540–580+whp range and still want to keep pulling. It’s not the starter setup – you’re committing to fuel, cooling, clutch and everything that goes with a serious build – but if you’re chasing a car that may give up a touch of low-rpm response and then leaves people behind from the top of third onward, the R660AS sits right at the top of the stock-frame pile.

What I’d Pair With It

• Built or at least very healthy K20C1, compression/leakdown checked
• High-capacity intercooler and cooling setup
• Upgraded DI system (HPFP, injectors) + LPFP + ethanol blend
• Clutch or built trans that’s not afraid of torque

27WON Kuro & Kuro+ – Ball-Bearing Drop-Ins With Street Manners

The 27WON Kuro and Kuro+ are well-known options in the platform. Both are true drop-in turbos using a ball-bearing TD04 center section, with housings designed around OEM-like fitment so they bolt up to factory lines and heat shields.

Kuro – Responsive OEM+ Upgrade

• TD04 ceramic ball-bearing CHRA
• 8+0 point-milled billet compressor wheel (~50mm inducer / 67mm exducer)
• 52mm turbine inducer / 45.7mm exducer
• Designed as a ~400–480whp solution with supporting mods

On a stock fuel system with pump gas and bolt-ons, most Kuro cars end up in the ~380–420whp window before fueling becomes the limitation. It’s a nice step up for someone looking to add a solid chunk of power without completely changing the personality of the car.

Spool is close to stock, midrange is strong, and it carries power better toward redline. If you want a car that still feels “Type R” and not like a laggy drag build, it fits that use-case pretty well.

Best For

• Owners who want a clear step over stock without chasing huge numbers
• People who value response and street manners first

Kuro+ – Turning Things Up

• Larger compressor wheel (~54.2mm inducer) and turbine exducer (~49.3mm)
• Built around 500+whp goals with proper fuel
• Ball-bearing center section for durability at higher boost

The Kuro+ is aimed at owners who are already planning on upgrading the fuel system and chasing 500whp+. With HPFP, injectors and ethanol, Kuro+ has been pushed into the ~520–580whp neighborhood while still staying streetable enough to daily.

It trades a bit of the easygoing nature of the base Kuro for more mid-to-top-end grunt, but it still doesn’t feel like a full-on race turbo. For someone specifically looking for a ball-bearing drop-in and a package that fits like OEM, the Kuro line checks those boxes.

What You Need to Support Kuro+

• Upgraded HPFP + DI injectors at a minimum
• E blend (E30–E50) if you want to make use of the turbo
• Good intercooler, downpipe/front pipe and exhaust

PRL P700 – Strong High-Capability Drop-In With Proven Improvements

The PRL Motorsports P700 is one of the more serious drop-in options available for the Honda/Acura 2.0T platform. I’m not going to pretend it’s perfect or crown it king, but it’s a strong performer with real 600+whp capability when paired with proper fueling and tuning – and the newer batches have clearly improved over the early runs.

Being Honest About the History

There were documented issues with some earlier P700 units in the community. Things like wastegate actuator inconsistencies, bearing/CHRA concerns on hard-used cars and overspeed situations when people tried to push them too far on limited fueling. Those issues were discussed openly on CivicX/CivicXI and by tuners.

PRL revised the turbo over time, and more recent community feedback has shown much more consistent performance and reliability, especially when the turbo is used within its intended airflow range and tuned by someone who knows what they’re doing.

P700 Hardware Highlights

• Cast 304 stainless steel dual ceramic ball-bearing CHRA
• Enlarged water jacket for increased cooling capacity
• Cast aluminum stock-location compressor housing with anti-surge inlet
• Cast 304 stainless turbine housing with integrated O₂ bung for Accord/TLX/RDX
• High-efficiency point-milled 9-blade billet 7075 aluminum compressor wheel (58mm inducer / 71mm exducer)
• High-efficiency Inconel 713C 9-blade turbine wheel (54mm inducer / 49mm exducer)
• Increased wastegate diameter to reduce backpressure
• Retains factory oil & coolant lines, bypass valve, wastegate actuator and heat shields – true drop-in, factory location

The P700 also features an integrated oxygen sensor bung in its turbine housing for Accord, TLX and RDX customers, so they don’t need to convert to an FK8-style downpipe like many other “drop-ins” require.

Realistic Power Expectations

Here’s where most setups tend to land based on tuner data and community cars – again, not fantasy numbers:

• 91–93 pump gas, stock fuel system: Typically ~420–480whp on a healthy car with good bolt-ons before the DI system becomes the choke point.
• E30 blend, mild fuel upgrades: Expect ~500–570whp with strong mid-range and top-end when tuned correctly.
• Full fuel system (XDI pump + Hondata fuel system / injectors + LPFP + E blend): Now you’re realistically in the ~600–640+whp territory on aggressive but sane setups.

A big part of the appeal is how early it spools for its size. Compared to some larger 600+whp-rated turbos, the P700 can feel more responsive down low while still having enough lungs up top when the fueling is there.

Tuning & Use-Case

This turbo can absolutely overspeed if you try to chase hero numbers without the fuel or without proper boost control. Experienced tuners know how to keep the CHRA and wheel speeds in a safe window.

Used within reason on a proper fuel system, the newer P700 units have proven to be a very strong option for owners who want serious power but still want to stay in a stock-location housing.

PLM P550 – Value 500+whp Option

The PLM P550 is a drop-in turbo aimed at people chasing solid numbers without going crazy on budget. PLM has shown around 533whp / 481wtq on their in-house FL5 with a full supporting-mod package, and rates it to roughly 550whp.

Key Details

• Billet compressor wheel and enlarged turbine wheel
• Upgraded bearing housing, VSR balanced
• Direct bolt-on for FK8 / FL5 / Accord 2.0T / RDX / TLX
• Re-uses factory blow-off valve

On a stock fuel system with pump gas, you’re realistically in a similar place as other mid-sized drop-ins: roughly 380–420whp before injectors become the choke point. With a good fuel system and ethanol blend, PLM’s own data supports around 500–540whp, with that ~533whp example already proven on their dyno.

If you’re trying to stretch the budget but still want real 500+whp capability, P550 is worth a look – just don’t skip on the fuel and cooling side to get there.

HKS GT4845 & Spoon Big Turbo – JDM Track & OEM+ Options

HKS GT4845 – Built for Laps, Not Just Dynos

The HKS GT4845 is a direct-fit turbo for FK8/FL5 that keeps the stock layout but focuses on holding boost at high RPM. Tested at Fuji Speedway, HKS saw around a 3-second lap time drop and roughly +7mph at the end of the straight compared to the stock turbo.

• Stock-location design; no custom manifold required
• Sized to work on the factory fuel system at moderate power levels
• Shines in the 5,000–7,000rpm range where the OEM turbo rolls over

Power-wise you’re looking at a mid-300s whp car with much stronger high-RPM power and no fuel upgrades needed at mild boost. This is a great option if your priority is road course consistency and you want something that feels like a refined factory upgrade rather than a wild drag setup.

Spoon Big Turbo – Factory Plus With JDM Pedigree

Spoon’s Big Turbo uses the latest high-efficiency MHI core, with reworked compressor and turbine wheels to deliver more flow without killing the low-to-mid torque that makes the car easy to drive.

• Compressor diameter increased from 58mm to 65mm
• Turbine wheel enlarged from 47mm to 52mm
• Drop-in using the OEM-style turbine housing
• Demo car showed roughly +100ps and +15kg·m over stock with full Spoon/Hondata setup

With Spoon’s recommended fuel system and supporting mods, you’re realistically in the ~350–380whp range on a typical dyno. It’s more of a “Spoon nerd / JDM purist” play than a max-power-per-dollar choice, but the driving feel is exactly what you’d expect from Spoon.

Drop-In Turbo Power & Dyno Cheat Sheet

These are real-world wheel horsepower (whp) ranges pulled from tuner results and vendor data. Numbers will move a bit from dyno to dyno, but this gives you a realistic idea of what each turbo can do on a stock fuel system vs a fully upgraded fuel system with ethanol.

Coming Soon – MDR Drop-In Turbo (In Development)

MDR is already killing it with their FL5 / DE5 intercooler work. Their drop-in turbo is next on the list.

Design Goal

Stock-like response and torque curve down low, but with a stronger pull all the way through the top end. Think “OEM+ feel” with real big-turbo legs.

Exact dyno numbers will wait until we have our own data, but based on what I’ve seen so far I’m fully expecting it to go toe-to-toe with (and in my opinion, edge out) the MHI Stage 2 for a balanced street/track setup once it’s released.

Fuel System & Supporting Mods – 2-Minute Reality Check

Before you swipe your card on any of these turbos, it’s worth being honest about what you actually want out of the car and what you’re willing to upgrade. Here’s the quick breakdown I use when helping people build a combo.

Stock Fuel System Zone (Roughly 380–430whp)

• On 91–93 pump gas and a completely stock DI fuel system, almost every turbo in this guide ends up in the same general area: mid-to-high 300s to low 400s whp.
• That’s simply where the stock injector and pump combo run out of room.
• Safe, repeatable power for daily and spirited driving.
• Great for people who don’t want to mix ethanol every fill-up.
• MHI Stage 2, Kuro, PLM P550, etc. all work really well here.

Upgraded Fuel + Ethanol Zone (500whp+)

• Once you step into HPFP, injectors and an E blend, the game changes. Now you can actually use what these bigger turbos are capable of without running the rail dry or risking a lean condition.
• Realistically 500–580+whp on the right turbo and tune.
• Mandatory if you’re chasing R660AS / Kuro+ / P700 high-boost goals.
• Plan for clutch/trans, cooling and brakes to match.

Side-By-Side Turbo Comparison

Huge Warning About Alibaba / eBay Turbos

So… Which Turbo Should You Actually Choose?

If you just want one answer: for a mixed-use street car that still pulls hard, the MHI Stage 2 is the smart move. It bolts on like stock, keeps the car easy to live with, and has enough headroom to make things interesting when you lean on it.

If you’re chasing top-end power and you’re already planning fuel, clutch, cooling and everything else, the RV6 R660AS is where you end up. It’s the stock-frame setup that keeps charging hard when a lot of other turbos are already packing up.

The PRL P700 is a strong option if you want serious power in a stock-location turbo and you’re aware of its history – newer batches paired with proper fueling and tuning have been putting in real work.

MDR also has a drop-in turbo in the works. Based on what I’ve seen so far from them, I’m expecting it to feel very OEM+ down low with a stronger pull all the way through the top. In my opinion, once we’ve got back-to-back data, it’s absolutely going to give the MHI Stage 2 a run for its money as the best “balanced” street/track option.

Everything else slots in around those depending on your budget, brand loyalty and how much you really want out of the car. As always, be honest about your goals, work with a good tuner, and don’t skip the supporting mods – the K20C1 rewards people who do it right.

Related Products on SBX Performance

• MHI Honda 2.0L Stage 2 Turbo Upgrade – SBX Performance

  RV6 R660 RED Ball Bearing Turbo for FK8/FL5/DE5 2.0T With Bypass Valve – SBX Performance

  RV6 R660AS Antisurge / T51R RED Ball Bearing Turbo for (FL5/DE5) 2.0T – SBX Performance

  PRL Honda / Acura 2.0T P700 Drop-In Turbocharger Upgrade – SBX Performance

  PLM Drop-In Turbocharger – 17-24 Honda Civic Type R FK8 FL5 K20C1 P550 – SBX Performance

  HKS GT4845 Sports Turbine Kit FK8/FL5 – SBX Performance

  27WON Kuro & Kuro+ 500+ WHP Ball Bearing Drop-In Turbo Upgrades (FK8/FL5/DE5/AccordX)